Clogged Drain
Start with a plunger or enzyme cleaner for minor clogs; persistent or slow drains often signal a deeper blockage needing professional inspection.
Use a cup-style plunger with a small amount of water covering the drain opening—create a tight seal and plunge steadily for 30 seconds. If that fails, try a natural enzyme cleaner, which breaks down organic matter without corroding pipes—especially helpful for older cast-iron or galvanized lines common in Boston’s 19th-century buildings. Follow instructions precisely: most need 6–12 hours to work, and should not be mixed with chemical drain cleaners.
If the clog recurs within days or multiple fixtures drain slowly, the blockage is likely in the main line or behind the P-trap. Insert a manual drain auger carefully—feed only a few feet to avoid damaging pipe joints in tight condospace risers. Avoid power augers unless trained; they can snap older pipes or force debris deeper. Snaking a shower or sink drain too aggressively may dislodge a broken trap, causing leaks under the floor.
Watch for signs of a sewer-line issue: gurgling, multiple drain backups, or wastewater backing up into a lower fixture like a basement laundry tub. In historic neighborhoods with shared lateral lines, tree roots are a frequent culprit. If you smell sewer gas or water pools near floor drains, stop using fixtures and call a licensed plumber immediately—this reduces health and structural risks.
